The Dive Sites of Thailand and Burma (Mergui)
Post tsunami update: Nothing has really changed. There was minimal damage to the coral reefs at the major dive areas around Thailand. Many coral reef survey's were conducted in the months after the waves, and the end result was that very little damage occurred to the coral around the dive sites, and surprisingly enough, not much silting except in very inshore areas of Thailand which are places divers rarely visit.
Strangely enough, most of the damage that did occur happened as a result of the earthquake and not the tsunami. One example is at Similan Island #9 where we have large boulders piled on top of each other, and the earthquake caused movement in this area (the island shifted a few centimeters, I have heard as much as 15cm) resulting in the rocks collapsing in some areas. So, places where we had swim-throughs before, overhanging rocks, are not in the same places as prior to the tsunami.
Now, back to what the diving is like:
Thailand's great diving has long been kept somewhat of a secret
from the world. Residents of Southeast Asia and those more adventurous
divers from Europe and North America however, long ago discovered
the wondrous attractions that dwell in our undersea Kingdom. Thailand
is blessed with two bountiful seas, the Gulf of Thailand in the
East and the Andaman Sea-part of the eastern Indian Ocean-in the
West. Thailand's territory stretches from the eastern border with
Cambodia, to the western border with Burma, and then south to
Malaysia. The riches that these oceans behold are a delight to
those of us that have had the pleasure to dive here. Furthermore,
the Kingdom is blessed with a remarkable history and culture,
friendly natives who offer friendly service, beautiful national
parks, a wide range of accommodation possibilities at every price
level and some of the most delicious and extraordinary food and
exotic tropical fruits in the world.
Often referred to as the "Land of a Thousand Smiles,"
Thailand is a joyous country in which to travel. One of the first
Thai phrases travelers learn is mai pen rai which literally
translates to "it is nothing." It also is used
in the same ways that "never mind" or "that's OK"
are used in English. However, mai pen rai is more than
that-it is almost a philosophy that teaches one to hide problems
and keep one's "public face" smiling and happy. For
the visitor this attitude creates of feeling of burdens lifted.
It makes you feel satisfied, content and cheerful. While exploring
the country you'll feel carefree, lighthearted and safe-you'll
feel mai pen rai. Is it any wonder so many of us expatriates
have decided to stay, or any wonder that people visit Thailand
time and time again?
Thailand offers the visiting diver diverse undersea experiences
along with an unbelievable amount of topside recreation. It's
the perfect place for a diving holiday. World-class diving, heavenly
tropical islands and immaculate white sand beaches await. With
water visibility often exceeding 30 meters, an average ocean temperature
of around 28º C, and uncommonly calm sea conditions, Thailand
has some of the most comfortable and safe diving environments
found anywhere in the world.
Every year more and more words are written describing the diverse
marine life that prowl the depths of Thailand's oceans and every
year more and more divers visit the country. There are three reasons
for this: First, new destinations such as the Burma
Banks, the Mergui Archipelago, and
the Andaman Islands in the Andaman Sea;
and Ko Tao in the Gulf and Ko
Chang near the Cambodian border have been made more accessible
to a wider variety of visitors. Second, Thailand's infrastructure
has vastly improved making it easier to communicate with the people
who offer the diving, the dive center owners. Third, the diving
boats, diving resorts, diving operations and diving staff have
improved their services and amenities so greatly that they now
cater to even the most discerning diver.
Diving takes place in three general areas: Pattaya, near the
capital of Thailand, Bangkok; the southern islands of the Gulf
of Thailand; and the two triangles of diving in the Andaman Sea
on the west coast of Thailand's isthmus. The pages that follow
will describe these areas in detail and will give all of you an
idea of what to expect when planning a dive trip here.
Northern Liveaboard Destinations
To the Northwest of the island of Phuket lie the most popular,
famous and best-loved dive sites in Thailand. The Similan
Islands, nine islands of stunning beauty and dazzling marine
life, are visited by many live-aboard boats from Phuket. The reasons
the area has become so famous are unlimited diving in warm, clear
water at one of over 25 dive sites, and mild, comfortable sea
conditions.
Approximately 180 kilometers to the Northwest of the Similan
Islands lie the relatively unexplored Mergui
Archipelago, a huge archipelago just opened in 1997, and
the famous Burma
Banks,
a group of underwater mountains rising from depths of over
350
meters to just below the surface. With thousands of islands in
Mergui, this area has become more and more popular with divers,
and will continue to be so. It's also popular for sailing and
kayaking adventures and cruises. Burma requires separate entry
and check in to the country.
Three hundred fifty kilometers further to the Northwest are
the newly opened Andaman Islands,
a vast array of islands running north to south in the Indian
Ocean. Diving
possibilities are endless and only just being explored. You'll
be hearing more and more about these islands in years to come.
But, things are quiet there now with permissions to go there
difficult and expensive.
Richelieu Rock completes our triangle,
back near the border of Burma. This tiny pinnacle is one of the
best places in the world to consistently swim with that gentle
giant the whale shark. Seen here over 60% of the time, these amazing
animals grow to over 15 meters in length.
Southern Live-aboard Destinations
Beginning in Phuket, we travel east to the popular day-trip spots
of Shark Point and Ko
Phi Phi which offer stunning collections of soft corals. Also,
the area is famous for frequent sightings of the docile leopard
shark that grows to over two meters in length. The remarkable
landscape and casual shore-life of Ko Phi Phi attract thousands
of visitors every year.
Moving south we discover unpopulated, unspoiled islands covered
with tropical jungle lapped by clear blue water, and offshore
pinnacles like Hin Daeng with vertical
drop-offs of over 60 meters. Whale sharks, dazzling fish and healthy,
spectacular coral growth are just a sampling of the diving possibilities
that await you.
Day-dive Destinations
One-day trips take us to Shark Point,
Anemone Reef, and the Phi Phi Island
group which all lie to the East of Phuket Island. Great soft coral,
leopard sharks, and nice walls are things not be missed. Also,
the topside scenery is stunning.
We can visit the paradise islands of Ko Racha
Yai and Noi located just to the South of Phuket. Exciting
drift dives, great visibility and superb hard coral growth characterize
these two islands.
Islands in the Gulf
The friendly laid-back islands of Ko Samui
and Ko Tao are located a relatively
short distance from Thailand's east coast city of Surat Thani.
Originally coconut plantations, these islands have developed into
a paradise for people searching for a completely relaxed lifestyle.
Exotic dive site names such as Ko Wao, Hin Bai and Chumpon Pinnacle
all lie within easy reach of Ko Tao and Ko Samui, and some of
the diving here can be spectacular. These sites present the casual
diver a pleasant diversion from such strenuous activities as laying
on the beach drinking cool coconuts fresh off the tree, or dancing
to reggae music at one of the local night clubs. Interesting diving
combined with a very pleasant stay on the islands makes for an
all around great time.
Pattaya: Fun City
Frequently referred to as "Southeast Asia's Fun Resort",
Pattaya is located just a short two
hour drive from Bangkok. A weekend escape for those living a chaotic
life in the capital, Pattaya's dive sites stretch from Pattaya
Bay to the border of Cambodia. Although mainly a popular place
in Thailand for diving instruction, the waters around Pattaya
can offer the experienced diver the opportunity to dive on ship
wrecks, an activity sadly lacking in other locations around the
country. From pleasant diving during the day, to the exotic and
frantic bar and entertainment scene at night, Pattaya is the most
comprehensive resort in Thailand and attracts a wide variety of
visitors from all over the world.
The Bottom Line
Environmentally, Thailand's diving fraternity has been a leader
in coral reef protection in Southeast Asia. Many of Thailand's
best dive sites have become protected under law. Over the past
ten years, I personally have seen major improvements in the quality
of diving at almost all regions around the country. While other
areas around Southeast Asia and the rest of the world have suffered
major degradation of their reefs, Thailand's government and its
dive centers have instigated sound policies in controlling damage
to the coral and fish populations. These policies have included
educating people regarding the destruction of reefs by dynamite,
mooring projects in the Similans, Ko Racha, Ko Phi Phi, Ko Samui
and Ko Tao, and a strict hands-off policy for divers enjoying
our undersea treasures.
As long as this positive trend continues, diving in Thailand's
seas will bring pleasure, enjoyment and thrills to many people-and
hopefully to their children and grandchildren as well-for years
to come. You'll find Thailand's waters, islands, and culture full
of life, full of wonder, and full of surprises.
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