Ko Tao and Ko Nang Yuan
The sleepy little islands of Ko Tao (turtle island) and Ko Nang
Yuan, located approximately 65 kilometers North of Ko Samui in
the Gulf of Thailand, have exploded as a diving destination over
the past few years. Although populated for some time, previously
the only form of income for the islanders was the harvesting of
coconuts and light fishing. These days there are a number of backpacker-style
bungalows, one or two up-market resorts, and about 10 dive centers
offering scuba and snorkeling trips to the surrounding reefs and
pinnacles.
An idyllic tropical paradise, Ko Tao seems to attract many divers
looking for lengthy stays in Thailand-many backpackers travel
to the island and end up spending months there. Some of the reasons
for this is the relaxed pace of living, inexpensive accommodation,
camaraderie between divers and dive centers, and of course interesting
and relatively inexpensive scuba diving. All these combine to
bring back visitors time and time again.
One of the best things about diving around these two small islands
is the fact that the dive sites, unlike Phuket's and Samui's,
are only minutes away. Including Ko Nang Yuan, which is only a
short hop from Ko Tao, there are over 15 dives sites charted in
the area. Sites range from deep water pinnacles, to shallow coral
gardens, to rocky points complete with swim-throughs such as we
find in the Similan Islands. Although water clarity can sometimes
be limited, frequently the water becomes as transparent as the
Andaman Sea with visibility over 30 meters. Again, this may not
be typical, but when the water gets like this, watch out: The
diving gets truly exciting.
One day a couple of years ago, I was visiting Ko Tao with a friend
from the States. The day was perfect, the sea glassy and smooth,
and the water crystalline, so we decided to take a dive or two.
There had been much talk of whale sharks over beers the night
before since I had seen quite a few on the Phuket side that year.
Everyone had high hopes of today being the day that the big boys
would be out to play. Well, the boys were out and then some.
As we pulled up to Chumpon Pinnacle, someone shouted "Whale
shark!!" and sure enough, there she was next to the boat.
While everyone jumped in with snorkeling gear, I hurriedly slapped
on my tank so that I could follow her more easily. As the snorkelers
crowded around her, she slowly moved off and only myself and a
videographer were able to follow. We spent the next 20 minutes
swimming easily along with the shark before she swam off to depths
unknown.
But that wasn't all. As I swam back to the boat to meet up with
my buddy, a four meter-long sail fish (or possibly a sword fish)
swam lazily below me almost the whole way back. He was a light
tan color and had a "sword" on him over one meter long.
Then, upon reaching my buddy and finally descending on the dive
site proper, we descended through a spiraling school of large
jacks numbering well over 1,000 individuals. We felt we were lost
in some monstrous whirlpool of fish and we were so mesmerized
we completely lost sight of the rock again.
Another long swim back to the boat with no air remaining. But
it wasn't over. Some type of huge animal, surely over 12 meters,
was swimming around the rock with a black back and a tiny black
fin. We knew it couldn't be another whale shark with those markings,
but only when we jumped in the water did we find out that two
fin back whales were frolicking with our group. Divers swam with
these whales for over one hour. This was definitely a dive of
a life-time-even though we never found the dive site.
Although he's not nearly as large as a fin back, Ko Tao has a
resident fish with an ego the size of any whale. Trevor, The Terrible
Trigger, dwells at White Rock off Ko Nang Yuan and what he lacks
in size he more than makes up for in belligerency. Trigger fish
are known to be hostile around mating season and they rigorously
defend their nests, but Trevor just doesn't seem to like anyone
no matter what time of year it is. He has this annoying habit
of sneaking up on divers and biting their hair, mask, fins, regulator,
or anything else that happens to be in the way. I really beheld
Trevor peering out from behind a rock waiting for divers to look
away from his hiding place so that he could then spring upon the
group like some kind of crazed warrior. And they say fish are
stupid.
Personally, I have had other stimulating encounters with marine
life on other dives that I prefer over my encounter that day with
our friend Trevor. However, my divemaster friends on Ko Tao assure
me that the terrors of Trevor are easily avoided if you know the
reef and avoid his territory. Fine. Just goes to show you that
a good guide is invaluable. I know that Trevor T-shirts are being
sold on Ko Tao. My hope is that they will use the proceeds to
open a hospital for deranged and demented fish.
Ko Tao offers the best diving in the Gulf of Thailand and combined
with the pleasantries of shore life, it is well worth a visit.
You may not see whale sharks or sword fish every dive, but you'll
certainly be more than charmed by the local inhabitants of the
reefs.
|
