Thailand Liveaboard Scuba Diving
About Thailand
Often referred to as the “Land of a Thousand Smiles,” Thailand offers joyous travel. Thailand liveaboards visit the Similan Islands, Koh Bon, Koh Tachai, and Richelieu Rock to the northwest of the resort island of Phuket, and Koh Phi Phi, Koh Ha, Hin Daeng and Hin Muang to the south, known as our Southern Islands.
Thailand is blessed with two bountiful seas, the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand. Thailand sits between Cambodia, Laos, Burma, and Malaysia and is the one and only country in Southeast Asia to have never been colonized. The Kingdom is blessed with a remarkable history and culture, friendly natives who offer friendly service, beautiful national parks, a wide range of accommodation possibilities at every price level, and some of the most delicious and extraordinary cuisine in the world. The riches that Thailand’s oceans behold are a delight to those of us that have had the pleasure to dive here.
It’s a Mai Pen Rai Kind of Country
One of the first Thai phrases travelers learn is mai pen rai which literally translates to “it is nothing.” The phrase is used in the same ways that “never mind” or “that’s OK” are used in English. However, maipenrai means more than that; it is almost a philosophy that teaches one to disguise problems to keep one’s “public face” smiling and happy. It’s a phrase used for respect and politeness. For the visitor this attitude creates a feeling of burdens lifted. It makes you feel happy, content and cheerful because everyone around you is the same–or at least pretending to be. While exploring the country you’ll feel carefree, lighthearted and safe; you’ll feel maipenrai. No wonder so many of us expatriates have decided to stay, or that Thailand welcomes well over 45 million visitors every year. Your first trip is usually not your last.
Liveaboard Diving in the Land of Smiles
Thailand’s Andaman Sea is the perfect place for a diving holiday with our world-class diving, heavenly tropical islands and immaculate white sand beaches. With water visibility often exceeding 30m (100ft), an average ocean temperature of 28º to 32º C (82 to 90ºF), and uncommonly calm sea conditions, Thailand has some of the most comfortable and safe diving, cruising and sailing environments found anywhere in the world. We’re especially famous for manta rays and whale sharks which are fairly common on our waters.
Liveaboard Diving in Andaman Sea
Since Thailand’s southern isthmus divides two oceans, you’ll be heading south for diving. The best diving takes place along the southwestern shores around the resort island of Phuket. The Similan and Surin Islands Archipelagos are the top destinations because they offer the best diving. There is no other place in Thailand which offers the diversity of marine life or sheer amount of dive sites. This is a known fact and is not in dispute. The Andaman Sea is where you want to be. Thailand is also the diving gateway and departure point to Burma’s Mergui Archipelago and the Andaman Islands.
Getting Here
To get the best dive sites in the Andaman Sea, it is almost always necessary to travel overnight by liveaboard vessel. Although there are plenty of resorts in Thailand at her many islands and beach areas, the best diving is located far offshore and these are best reached by a type of vessel you can sleep on. Yes, some operators have speed boats to get you to some of these places, but the rides are long and bumpy and generally not safe. We don’t offer them, period. Liveaboards are the only way to get to the best destinations in the Andaman Sea. Trips range from three to 10-days. Prices are relatively low and value is extremely high.
Phuket International Airport, the South’s Travel Hub
Most of the dive boats leave from the ports in Phuket or just north of Phuket. There are dozens of daily flights into Phuket International Airport (HKT) from all over the world. We’re an hour from Bangkok and just over an hour from Singapore. We’re four hours from Hong Kong Jakarta, or Manila. We’re five hours from Dubai. Currently, we’re the third most popular island in the world.
Infrastructure in Thailand is well-developed with a very strong tourism industry. Transportation between islands and cities is excellent. We have planes, trains, automobiles, ferries, buses, and in Bangkok, subways and sky trains. All of it is easily accessible and inexpensive.
A visa is generally not required for a 30 days visit to Thailand. For some nationalities a Visa On Arrival (VOA) is required. Tourist visas for up to 60 days are easily obtained at a Thai Consulate. Longer stays are also possible. For current information Google your local Thai Consulate. Information is provided in your language.
The Best Time to Visit
The diving season for Thailand’s the Andaman Sea is from November to April each year when the northeast winds are balmy and mild. Generally we’re considered closed from May until September each year due to unpredictable weather. The Similan and Surin Islands are closed by law during this time.
Thailand’s Liveaboards
Popular Thailand Dive Sites
About the Author
John Williams has written, co-authored, or contributed to four diving guides on Thailand, the Mergui Archipelago, and the Andaman Islands. These are the award-winning Lonely Planet Diving & Snorkeling series, Periplus Editions Diving Southeast Asia, Asian Diver Scuba Guides and Singapore’s Times Edition Diving Thailand. He has lived in Phuket and dived in Thailand’s waters since 1987.
The islands are identified by a name and a number, one through nine. The islands are part of the national park status and fully protected under Thai law. The National Park Authority maintains their presence on two of the islands: Koh Similan (Island 8) the largest, and Koh Miang (Island 4). There are basic bungalows and camping on Island 4.
The West Coast offers fast-paced exhilarating diving as currents swirl around the huge granite boulders, some larger than the largest of houses. These smooth rounded boulders create formations, forming holes, and overhangs or swim-throughs underwater where divers can enjoy ducking and kicking through the openings. The drama of looking up through the clear water at these huge rocks is satisfaction enough for some divers, as there are very few places like this on earth. Growing on these boulders are some of the most colorful soft corals imaginable, in many places so thick that the rock is no longer visible. In the larger passages or channels between the boulders, the orange sea fans characteristic of Similan grow to three or four meters across, and are often so tightly bunched together they block passages.
The East Coast once offered healthy coral down white sand slopes, but the coral bleaching event of 2010-2011 severely impacted these corals. Many of the eastern dive sites are closed to the public to allow them a full recovery. In a few areas, especially around Island 5 you’ll see what it looked like before and what it will look like again one day. You’ll be doing some of your dives on the east side of the islands for sure, but not as many as you once would.
If you enjoy watching and photographing tropical fish, the Similan Islands are hard to beat for the sheer numbers and varieties of tropicals, especially lion fish and anemone fish. The Similans are not well-known for big fish-action, but we do see giant trevally, some Napoleon wrasse and turtles. Of course the most famous aquatic resident of Thailand, the leopard or zebra shark, makes his appearance on a regular basis. As the park becomes more and more protected from fishing, fish sizes are increasing. Overall, in my opinion, the reef fish are 20-30% larger on average than they were 30 years ago when I started diving here.
We’ll also see white tip and black tip sharks, and a few times over the years we’ve seen schools of pseudo orcas or false killer whales. We get a lot of dolphins between the islands moving north and south. Enjoy the Similans for wild, unspoiled beaches, magnificent soft coral, prolific fish life, crystalline blue water and sensational underwater rock formations.
Leopard sharks are pretty common below the ridge on the sandy flats. Although the soft corals are not as high-profile as they are in the Similans, the colors of the corals are radically different and include shades of turquoise, yellow and blue, besides the more common pinks and purples. The colors are more pastel than the usual hard bright we see commonly other places.
Rays will sometimes be found in the deeper areas at depths for more experienced divers. The Koh Bon ridge is full of individual and schooling fish and some overhangs have places for smaller creatures to hide, but this is more of a fish and coral dive than a critter dive. .
Above the waterline there is a huge hole on the ridge and when a swell is running it pushes the water through the hole and the force of it makes white water below the surface making for a fun and exciting safety stop. Just don’t get too close to the surface if the swell is big.
There is a pinnacle in the bay just to the north of the ridge. It’s a deep rock, but if you’re an experienced diver it’s worth the short bottom times you’ll get as it’s a very special site. Not all boats visit it and if currents are strong it’s not worth the effort. But, if the water is clear, you’re good with your breathing gas, and the current is slack, it’s a stunning rock. It looks like a monolithic temple built by some ancient culture.
The rock runs along an almost east to west course, the taller of the two pinnacles comes up to about 18 meters and the other pinnacle comes only up to about 24 meters. The sandy areas around the rock are well over 45 m so beyond the range of most scuba divers. However, when the visibility is good you see all the way around the rock. Leopard sharks hang here, but it’s also a good place to see smaller critters hiding in the rock. The pinnacle is fairly close to the main ridge and it’s possible to swim to the ridge, though there is little reason to do so.
A ridge runs between the two pinnacles, though the eastern rock is the one most people dive as there are boat moorings making it easier for divers to descend in a strong current. If you have the gas and the current is not too strong, it’s worthwhile swimming to the other rock which comes up a bit shallower. However, most of the time the current runs perpendicular to the ridge making a long swim tiring. It’s heaven for the fish, though; they hunt and dart around, coming very close to divers, making the diving here about as exciting as it gets.
A ridge runs between the two pinnacles, though the eastern rock is the one most people dive as there are boat moorings making it easier for divers to descend in a strong current. If you have the gas and the current is not too strong, it’s worthwhile swimming to the other rock which comes up a bit shallower. However, most of the time the current runs perpendicular to the ridge making a long swim tiring. It’s heaven for the fish, though; they hunt and dart around, coming very close to divers, making the diving here about as exciting as it gets.
Koh Tachai also boasts a breathtaking sandy beach on its northeastern shore; It’s a popular anchorage when northeast winds have calmed down in March and April. The beach is one of the prettiest anywhere though it’s not always open.
Some boats offer night dives on the western part of the island in a small bay or in front of the beach weather permitting. The main ridge is generally too deep and the currents too strong for reasonable and safe night diving.
Nearly every imaginable variety of bony fish is found here, including many species of butterfly fish, wrasse, damsel fish, lion fish and a host of other reef dwellers. Among the most abundant species are scorpion fish, which are amazingly adept at blending in with their surroundings. Be especially careful where you put your hands, because many things that look like rocks are not really rocks! A number of eel species live here as well, including giant, white-mouth, fimbriated, snowflake, bar-tail and zebra morays. Schooling fish like fusiliers and snapper are also prevalent, in addition to open water predators like rainbow runners, mackerel, and barracudas. One schooling fish deserves special mention–a huge school of bigeye jacks can often be seen on the up-current side of the rock, where they often circle divers en masse, creating a living maelstrom of fish. Schooling chevron barracudas are seen almost all the time.
Divemasters are now quite good at spotting ghost pipefish, Harlequin shrimp, and tiger-tailed seahorses–if you don’t see something weird here you just aren’t paying attention. Cuttlefish hover around, usually in the autumn, but very often at other times of the year as well. Octopus is common, and lionfish as well as different kinds of anemone fish are easily spotted.
Richelieu Rock is a world-class dive site, and if you don’t like diving here, you simply don’t like diving! You can dive here over and over and see something new. The currents change constantly, and it’s not always an easy dive. But, if you listen to your dive guide and his or her briefing, you can learn how to hide from the currents and have a very enjoyable dive all the time. Many boats will spend the entire day here so you can get a full appreciation of the variety of conditions and marine life at this fantastic dive site.
Note:Recently there have been postings (even on PADI’s website) that Richelieu Rock was named by Jacques Cousteau’s team when they were filming in Thailand and the Andaman Islands in 1988 and 1989. However, Richelieu Rock was named long before Mr Cousteau visited these waters so this story is simply inaccurate no matter how romantic it sounds. There were European explorers all over Southeast Asia from the 15th to 19th centuries and many European names exist for islands and rocks in Thailand as well as in the Mergui (Myeik) Archipelago in Burma. By the way, Cousteau was denied permission to go to Burma when his team was here, but he did do a little-known film about the Andaman Islands called The Invisible Islands. It’s worth watching if you can find a copy.